Gwendolen's Fairy Tale Dress

Gwendolen (Helen Kish doll Shea) looking beautiful.

I got a Shea at the beginning of the year! I wasn't going to buy a Shea because even though she's my favourite face mould , all the Shea's seem to have quite high colouring which makes them look like they're wearing make-up. That's not a moral thing, a these dolls are too young for make-up thing, I don't care about that. (Although I kind of feel that way about the fact most of them come in high heels, I'm 35 and I don't wear high heels as often as these dolls do!) It's more of an issue of the versatility of the doll. A kid doll with natural colouring looks equally at home in play clothes, party clothes, period clothes, whatever clothes. A  kid doll that looks like she's wearing make-up looks a bit funny in casual clothes and the more casual the clothes the funnier she looks. But then someone was selling a "Third times a charm" convention Shea (and "Wren Sugar Plum") and well . . . you know how it goes, I have two new dolls! (Actually three new dolls, got a secondary market "Debut Phoenix" since then. And yes, I rewigged him as a girl.)

Anyway, I saw this dress on Pinterest :

Dress from LACMA. I've found this dress tagged as being 1880s and 1890s.

Not sure when it's actually from but I'm guessing the girl's parents were following the aesthetic movement.

And I HAD to make it! And I really regret that. There's smocking on the skirt. I've always had the attitude that anyone can do almost anything if they try, and found it irritating when people say they can't do things that they've never tried to do. . . but for the record, I can't smock. I'm determined to learn but so far no amount of trying has made the slightest bit of difference. So my pattern has no smocking. Feel free to add some if you're good at that kind of thing though. Also if I were to make this dress again I think I would tack down the pleats in the front somehow. Once I had the dress on the doll, the pleats kept falling open, making the bodice look baggy, but I'm sure you can see that in the photos.

Also I want to apologize for the fact that the photos have turned out a little funny. The fabrics I used had a fairly high sheen and apparently don't photograph well.

Gwendolen (Helen Kish's Shea) full length

As you can see in the picture, the skirt, bodice and sleeves are all one fabric; the collar and cuffs are a second fabric; and the undersleeves, yoke and neck frill are a third fabric. There is a bow at the back which is made from the same fabric as the bodice and skirt.

First thing to do is to make the entire front bodice.

I've made the neck ruff as an entirely separate piece to the dress, so don't worry about that just yet.

Cut and line the yoke piece and the collar.

If you're making the collar out of velvet (like I did) don't line it with velvet, line it with a scrap of cotton or silk. (Although I was horrified when I realised the scrap of "artificial" silk I was using to line it was not actually artificial at all! I felt like I'd just wasted something precious!)

With right sides together sew the collar onto the yoke.

Cut and pleat the bodice, the area between the arrows on the pattern is the inside of the pleat (the bit you can't see).

Stitch the pleats into place across the top and the bottom and (as I wish I had) maybe tack them in place along their length.

Then sew the collar/yoke piece into the bodice. Don't worry if the collar sticks up a bit at this point, you can tack it down at the points later.

Next cut and line, hem or face the back bodice pieces. The overlap/wrap for back fastenings are included in the pattern piece, but not marked.

Sew the front and back bodices together along the shoulder seams.

Now put the bodice in a safe place while you make the sleeves.

Cut two sleeve pieces, two cuff pieces and two undersleeves.

Make a hem on one edge of the undersleeves. Make it wide enough that you'll be able to thread it with elastic, this is the lower edge.

Sew one edge of the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, with the right side of the cuff against the wrong side of the sleeve.

Fold the cuff back over the sleeve, so the wrong side of the cuff is now against the right side of the sleeve, tuck the edges of the cuff under and sew it down.

Then gather the undersleeve piece onto the lower edge of the sleeve.

Now to attach the sleeve to the bodice.

I didn't gather them. In the original picture it looks like the sleeves have been sewn straight onto the bodice with the excess pleated into the top of the sleeve where the shoulder seam is, so that's how I did it. You could gather them if you wanted, they'd be puffier. But I like them this way.

Next sew the side seams of the bodice and the seams on the sleeves. BUT before you finish the sleeve seams, thread elastic into the lower edge of the undersleeves and tie it off.

Try the bodice on the doll and if necessary tack the points of the collar down so they don't stick up.

Cut the skirt piece. Or pieces. I used a front piece and two back pieces simply because my fabric wasn't big enough to cut a single 80cm piece.

Line, face or hem the lower edge. I've discovered I prefer facing on dolls skirts. It's almost impossible to make a hem look neat in this size.

Then gather the skirt onto the bodice.

Finish the back opening and add fastenings.

But you're not finished yet!

There's more to come.

Gwendolen's fairy tale dress back view.

Cut the pieces for the sash. The two larger pieces then need to be doubled over and sewn into tubes along their longer side, then ironed flat. 

Take the bow piece and fold the two ends into the centre so that they overlap and sew together. 

To get the fringes you may be able to just fringe the ends of your fabric. I wasn't so lucky. I was using a pretty cheap polyester that had no intention of fringing at all. So I cut two scraps of silk 6cm square, folded them double and zigzag stitched them along one end. Then I frayed the rest of the silk by pulling out the crossways threads nearly up to the zigzagging. Then I tucked the zigzagged part inside the open end of the sash and stitched it closed.

Pleat the bow centre with your fingers, you can put a stitch or two in if it's easier, then attach the centre (or not quite centre) of the tails to the centre of the bow. (I made mine slightly off centre for realism)

fold under the edged of the small sash piece  and iron flat. wrap this piece around the centre of the two larger pieces and sew closed. Then attach the sash to the back of the dress.

AND of course the neck ruff!

Cut the neck ruff piece.

Double it over, right sides together and sew along the long side into a tube.

Turn it in the other way.

Turn the ends in.

Stitch a second line about half a centimetre in from the seam. This is the casing for a ribbon.

Stitch the ends closed, EXCEPT on the casing.

Run baby ribbon through the casing.

Pull the ribbon up so it's the right length to fit around the doll's neck (test on the doll of course!)

Tack the ribbon into place at these points and cut off the tails to the length you want them.

And NOW you're finished! If you're like me at this point you'll need a nice sit down and a cup of tea, while you decide whether to feel proud or cry for a while.

Seriously, making this dress was the most emotionally scarring sewing project of my life! And that is only a slight exaggeration!

And now the pattern and then some more pictures of the finished product.

And she looks so lovely, maybe it was worth the almost nervous breakdown it caused!

Gwendolen looks like a character from a nursery rhyme or fairy tale.

Except for the scrap of cotton she has stuck to her sleeve!

"Would you RELAX it's just a dress!" 

Gwendolen is unsympathetic to my stress over making this dress.

 

Shoes are MSD (Kid delf) sized by Luts.
They fit o'kay with socks.

Stockings are from a pattern in an old issue of the Kish Collectors Society newletter.
Seriously if you like Kish dolls join the Society, it's not expensive and the newsletters are lovely.